That brand will never stop trying to be cool

That brand will never stop trying to be cool

Instagram posts started surfacing from Thursday through November.

Actress Lupita Nyong’o Wore A knit red and black midi dress on a high neck and cap sleeve. Sarah Jessica Parker Wore A full-length dress in black silk, plumbing keyhole’s neckline and beloved sleeves are detached from the sides.

Both dresses come from the latest collection of St. John Knits, a 57-year-old American luxury knit knitwear company. And both women were given their stance. There were a few others on Instagram: a supermodel, a former reality TV star, a magazine editor, a Kardashian stylist, a descendant of John de Rockefeller, and a number of popular but obscurely appointed fashion influencers.

St. John was reproducing itself, and Instagram was its vessel. The relatively new majority of the one-time family-run California company was the partner, Chinese firm Fosun Fashion Group, which also acquired Lanvin, a French luxury fashion house. In 2018, Fosun announces the name of the new Chief Executive in St. John, Iran Cohen, a new creative director named Joe Turner next year.

Mr Cohen and Mrs Turner are trying to re-launch the brand that has grown year after year, the relevance in the fashion industry is dwindling and the corporate history of not really knowing what to do. (It was sold to Eskada in 5; publicly published in 3; private in 5; and founding family and multiple executives came and came in the 20s.)

“Now is the time for our modernization,” said Mr Cohen, who has worked for Piles Shoesource, Diane von Furstenberg and Petsmart. One year before Mr. Cohen’s arrival, 200 St. John’s employees were laid off. “The brand needed a little love,” he said.

St. John’s is best known for wearing rich, classic knit suits for wealthy middle-aged women. A. For one thing, it was reported that Sax was the most profitable brand on Fifth Avenue. But when did that knit suit begin to happen? Less necessary In women’s wardrobes, the company sought shelter in Hollywood, putting celebrities in its promotion for the first time in decades.

At 25, St. John’s Angelina Jolie hired, at the top of her tabloid fame, “Mr. and Mrs. Smith,” and the controversial beginning of Brangelina. Six years later, the company Kate Winslet received the Globeing Press for casting, “The real shape, “And Mrs. Jolie” who was “Impress the brand. “

Within 25, another new chief executive (one of Louis Vuitton) arrived, announcing his intention to create St. John’s “Relevant“And target a younger population. Mrs. Jolie and Mrs. Winslet did not do the trick.

Yet the brand’s playbook of redefinition has not changed at all. Three months ago, St. John Vogue did the 2020 edition of glittering celebrity ads – this, Sponsored posts are being planted with Instagram influencers (including some celebrities, such as Mrs. Nang-yo and Mrs. Parker).

The breadth of this campaign, however, was different. The design was essentially the same in previous attempts to rebuild, revitalize, re-interpret or re-invent St. John’s: sophisticated and conservative, professional but comfortable, timeless and tweed.

This time, without turning away from her expensive-looking DNA, St. John’s new designer, Miss Turner, offered a completely modern capsule collection. If the old St. John’s professional woman was a casual lunch uniform, then the new St. John looked like something worn by a cool lady in your office, even though she was less than 40 years old.

She also showed more skin – an A-line black midi dress with long length cutouts that cut the skirt. She took more chances – a monochrome navy leather turtleneck and matching skirt. He had his style – the new Tweed suit had a sleeveless silhouette of a suit, which Mrs Turner said was particularly well-sold in Asian markets.

St. John’s stereotypical consumption has broadened its population goals beyond readership. To promote its effectiveness, the company runs a menswear blog and disabled staff with Ezra Model, a Louisiana woman who wears a Lauren Spencer (“Lolo”) and late Mama Cox, among others. Essence Magazine The cover of Mrs. Turner’s capsule collection is covered; Did not vote. (Mr Cohen says that St. John’s is “included.”)

“I want every woman to see herself in St. John,” said Mrs. Turner. She highlights both femininity and sewing, which is not surprising during the nearly decade of working on Christian Dior under John Galliano and Raf Simon. (He has not yet fully relocated from Europe to St. John’s headquarters in Irvine, California)

St. John’s campaign seemed to have ended. On November 20, weeks after the release of the capsule collection, Zendaya, who appeared last year as a youth fashion powerhouse, was last year Pictured on Instagram Wearing a beautiful white evening dress from the collection. This was not a sponsored post.

She and her stylist Law Roach chose the costume for dinner in celebration of the cover of their recent Garage magazine, in collaboration with artist Simone Leigh.

Mr Roach says he was surprised when his team came up with photos of Mrs Turner’s designs.

“In most cases, St. John’s always what your chic grandma wore,” she said. “If you’re not a channel girl, you’re a St. John’s girl. It feels new, it feels refreshed. “

Mr Roach said that the dress chosen for Zendera was “Artsy, Greek – it has a passion” “The waist was slightly sewn with a large gold woven loop belt. He said, “The silhouette looked like something she had never worn before – ordinary, but it was still a statement.”

Mrs Turner called the choice a “surprise surprise.”

If anything hints at the possible coolness of St. John’s, it was indeed in Texture together For photos that night, Mrs. Leigh was dressed in the fashion industry’s current boy genius, Christopher John Rogers, while Zendaya smiled at her afterward, wearing this “glamorous grandmother” brand St. John.

However, gender approval alone cannot make a brand successful; Not 100 can make an impact. St. John’s Age is not explicitly discussed, but it is clear that companies must attract thousands of new (younger) customers who want to spend hundreds, if not thousands, of luxury apparel without diverting the trustworthy core of companies. It’s a balancing act, and Mr. Cohen is leaning toward serving the same old customer base as his predecessors.

“I don’t think we’re talking about who we’re actually changing,” he says, “a little louder than what we’ve done in the past.” “

The presentation was canceled a week before St John’s Massa Turner showcased the fall of New York Fashion Week. The label has decided that it will promote it later through social media. Mrs Turner said the production took longer than expected.

“If it’s not done very well, we won’t do anything,” he said. “So we’re just taking our time a little bit longer and making sure we’re doing things right.”

Fall collections, which will sell for $ 395 to $ 4,200, are less adventurous than capsules, tending more to the brand’s nostalgia. Evening dresses look familiar: a silk apricot Halstonesque gown with volume sleeve; A long sleeveless dress in pale pink, a square neckline and large sequins, which Mrs. Turner spoke reluctantly.

“I won’t use too much sequins in the collection,” he said. “I want to find new ways of evening”

If St. John’s finally succeeds in changing its image, this “new way” may require some more marketing.

In November, when the author called Leandra Medin Cohen The man-repeller shared an Instagram post wearing the item in his delicious Turners capsule – a long, cocoon-shaped transparent silk turtleneck, covered with a choker in the same style of gendarme’s belt – he referred to it as his “I am a mother” look.

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